Frequent Ask Questions
Q: How can I tell if my home uses too much energy?
A: A quick first step to evaluate your energy use is the Home Energy Yardstick. If you have 5 minutes and your energy bills are in hand find out if your home’s energy performance measures up. To use the Yardstick, you will need to enter some common information about your home such as age, square footage, number of occupants and energy bill totals for a consecutive one year. If you don't keep your bills, contact your utility for a 12-month summary.
Q: Do air ducts make a difference in my home’s energy use?
A: Yes. Ducts that move air to and from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner (CAC), or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20%. Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, or unheated basement. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house.
Q: Does changing my furnace or air conditioning filter each month save energy?
A: Changing your furnace or air conditioning filter regularly (at least every 3 months) is a good idea, but it is hard to know how much energy it actually saves. Check your filter especially during heavy usage (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it.
Q: What is Home Sealing?
A: Home Sealing is a comprehensive set of recommended steps for improving the “envelope” or “shell” of your home by sealing up air leaks and adding insulation. Home Sealing can make you home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and lower your utility bills.
Q: Should I install an insulating blanket on my water heater?
A: Installing an insulating blanket is a good idea if your water heater’s storage tank has a low insulating R-value (less that R-24). If you don't know your water heater tank's R-value, touch it. A tank that's warm to the touch needs additional insulation. Adding an insulating blanket to your water heater can reduce standby heat losses by 25% to 45% and save you around 4% to 9% in water heating costs. Insulating your water heater tank is simple and inexpensive.
Q: What is a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) in terms of window efficiency?
A: Solar Heat Gain Coefficient otherwise known as (SHGC) tells you how well the window blocks heat caused by sunlight. The lower the SHGC, the less solar heat the window transmits. SHGC is measured on a scale of 0 to 1; values typically range from 0.25 to 0.80.
Q: Can commercial windows be qualified as energy efficient?
A: No. There is a program only for residential applications, meaning non-commercial buildings or residential structures under three stories. Commercial windows, doors, and skylights would require a separate program because of the different structural, durability, and wind load requirements.
Q: What framing material should I look for to ensure that the window, door, or skylight I select is energy efficient?
A: When selecting a window, door, or skylight for energy efficiency, all you have to do is look for the energy star. Since energy star criteria are based on whole-unit performance, including the frame, you can select a product that is qualified for your climate zone rather than searching for the materials, components, or technologies that are most energy efficient.
Q: What's the difference between “long life” incandescent light bulbs and qualified (CFL) otherwise known as Compact Fluorescent Lights?
A: While a “long life” bulb does last longer than a standard incandescent bulb, it still uses a lot of energy and it doesn’t last as long as a Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL). A long life 60-watt incandescent bulb usually lasts for 2,000 hours, but an equivalent 13-watt energy star qualified CFL will last 6,000 hours or more, and use 75% less energy. ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs help you save money in energy and household costs and you won’t have to buy and change bulbs as often.
Q: I hear CFLs will be required by 2012. Is that true?
A: It’s not entirely correct to say "CFLs will be required" or “incandescent will be phased out” because the standards set by the bill are technology neutral, and by 2012, a next generation of incandescent bulbs could satisfy the 30% increased efficiency. The Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 (the “Energy Bill”), signed by the President on December 18, 2007 requires all light bulbs use 30% less energy than today’s incandescent bulbs by 2012 to 2014 The phase-out will start with 100-watt bulbs in January 2012 and end with 40-watt bulbs in January 2014. By 2020, a Tier 2 would become effective which requires all bulbs to be at least 70% more efficient (effectively equal to today’s CFLs).
